The Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia

Within Melanesia lies the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia, situated around 190km east of Grande Terre. The trio of islands are known as Lifou, Maré and Ouvéa, or by their Indigenous names of Drehu, Nengone, Iaaï. These islands are rich in tradition, natural beauty and Kanak culture, only a short plane trip from the capital of Nouméa. 

Paul Fizin, Head of Documentary Resources and Communication at the Academy of Kanak Languages in New Caledonia, shares some interesting information about the Loyalty Islands and their connection to other Pacific Islands:

“They are islands in permanent contact. Witness to this past of permanent contact in Lifou, for example, the toponymy of the District of Lösi (Grande-Chefferie Bula) bears the names of other Oceania shores: Wallis, Samoa, Tonga. Alliance networks such as the Xetiwan from the southern islands of Vanuatu nourish myths and oral traditions. In the 19th century, some Europeans in search of sandalwood and labour for Queensland (blackbirding episode) settled on the islands: the beachcombers. Most of them were welcomed in the island's chiefdoms. Today there are still some Anglo-Saxon family names such as the Reads, the Mackams, the Wrigts and the Stretters.”

Lifou

Like the other islets and isles in New Caledonia, Lifou was formed by raised coral. If entering the island by boat, be wary of the fringing reefs and dangerous cliffs. The local vanilla plantations of Jozip, Wu, Mucaweng and Traput, are well-known for producing high-quality vanilla. This industry was established in Lifou in the middle of the 19th century. Some must-do activities include visiting Lugengöni Beach, picking up fresh produce from the Wharfside Markets, snorkelling at Jinek Bay Marine Reserve and exploring the Jokin Cliffs.

Maré

The island of Maré is the most easterly, the second largest and has the highest peak of all the Loyalty Islands. Maré is known for its steep cliffs, dense forests and sand coves. One of its most popular attractions includes the Natural Aquarium, located in the South of Tadine. Other places to visit on Maré include the Warrior’s Leap, the various beaches including Wabao, Kurine, Pede and Shabadran, or explore the Pethoen and Medu caves.

Ouvéa

One of the most beautiful islands, Ouvéa, is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only 35 kilometres in length and 40 metres wide at the narrowest section of the island, Ouvéa has been described as the ‘The Island the Closest to Paradise’. Fayaoué Beach is their best-known beach, stretching over 25 kilometres. Two local languages are spoken, including the Kanak language of Laaï and a Polynesian dialect known as Faga-Uvea, due to many ancestors from Ouvéa originating from across Polynesia and Melanesia.

Finally, Tiga, is the smallest and a lesser-known Loyalty Island in New Caledonia. Travel is limited to an inter-island flight from Lifou. The island is approximately 30 kilometres north of Maré, totalling only 10 square kilometres, with the highest point reaching 92 metres. The single tribe of the island lives in the North-West, where the Kanak people live in traditional houses known as a ‘case’.

Paul Fizin from Academy of Kanak Language in New Caledonia, also recognises the challenges facing the Loyalty Islands: 

“The imperative of economic development is an indispensable condition for keeping the island's population and youth attracted by the capital's promises of economic integration. The need for cultural and linguistic transmission. The irruption of French into everyday life, particularly through the new media and support (tablet, smartphone, social networks) is causing the languages of the islands to recede. It is a whole vision of the world, a universe, a way of being in the world that is threatened. However, for the youth of the Loyalty Islands to be able to reformulate themselves, they need their cultural and linguistic heritage to be able to project it into the future and thus live fully in this globalised world.”

The beauty of the Loyalty Islands is indescribable and experiencing the Kanak culture is an enriching experience. Whether you are wanting to discover one of Australia’s closest neighbours, or simply learn about Melanesian culture, the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia are the perfect place to visit.

The Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia, situated to the east of Grande Terre (Google Maps)